Silk Types: A Comparative Guide to Different Silk Fabrics

A Brief Background on Silk

Before we get into the specifics, let me give you a quick primer on silk and why it’s so coveted:

• Silk has a beautiful natural sheen. The protein fibers in silk reflect light differently than plant-based or synthetic fibers, giving it an elegant glow.
• It has a smooth, soft texture. Silk fibers have a triangular shape which allows them to pack tightly together, creating a smooth surface that feels wonderful against the skin.
• Silk is extremely strong and durable. Silk fiber is one of the strongest natural fibers, despite its delicate appearance.
• It dyes easily and holds color well. The fibers readily absorb a wide range of dye colors, while resisting fading.
• Silk regulates temperature. It keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter, making it a comfortable fabric to wear year-round.

With these exceptional properties, it’s no wonder silk has been treasured in China, India, and across the world for thousands of years.

From ancient emperors to Victorian ladies to modern fashionistas, silk conveys luxury, sensuality, and refinement.

Now let’s take a deeper look into four of the main silk varieties used today.

Comparing the texture, sheen, uses, and other attributes of Mulberry, Tussar, Eri, and Muga silk will help you determine which type best suits your needs and preferences.

Mulberry Silk: The Soft and Shiny Silk

Of all the types of silk, Mulberry is the best known and most widely produced. Here are its key qualities:

• Origin: Mulberry silk comes from the silkworm Bombyx mori, which feeds exclusively on the leaves of Mulberry trees (thus the name). Most production takes place in China and India.
• Production: Silkworm larvae spin cocoons out of a silk fiber, which is then boiled to kill the pupae without damaging the long filament threads. Several filaments are bundled together to make silk threads.
• Texture: Smooth, soft, and very uniform. The fibers reflect light evenly for an exceptionally luminous sheen.
• Uses:
  • Clothing – blouses, evening gowns, ties, undergarments
  • Bedding – luxury sheets, blankets, pillowcases
  • Upholstery & Decor – curtains, wall hangings
• Pros
  • Most brilliant sheen of all silks
  • Very soft, smooth, and comfortable against skin
  • Strong and durable if cared for properly
• Cons
  • More expensive than other silk varieties
  • Requires gentle handling and dry cleaning
  • Production can use harsh chemical processing

If you want silk with beautiful drape that feels supremely soft against your skin, Mulberry is the best choice.

It works wonderfully for special occasion apparel and adding a touch of luxury to your home. Just take care not to snag it and have it dry cleaned only to extend its longevity.

Tussar Silk: The Textured & Earthy Silk

For a silk with more texture and rustic appeal, consider Tussar silk. Here’s an overview:

• Origin: Tussar silk is produced in India and parts of China. It comes from the larvae of several related wild silkworm species rather than a cultivated species.
• Production: Tussar silk production is less resource-intensive than other varieties since the moths live on trees rather than requiring cultivated mulberry leaves. The cocoons are gathered after the moths emerge and then boiled.
• Texture: Coarser, textured, and uneven compared to Mulberry silk. It has a dull gold tone and matte finish.
• Uses:
  • Saris, scarves, and dresses
  • Home furnishings like pillows and wall hangings
  • Often blended with other fibers for durability
• Pros
  • Distinctive texture provides visual interest
  • Shimmery gold hue
  • Environmentally friendly production with less chemical processing
• Cons
  • Not as soft and supple as Mulberry silk
  • More difficult to dye and print intricate patterns
  • Durability issues if not blended with other fibers

The natural golden sheen and textured quality of Tussar silk lends itself beautifully to bohemian fashions, decorative pillows, or statement wall art.

It provides a luxe look for less cost than finer silks. Just take care with more delicate items, since the coarser weave can be prone to snagging.

Eri Silk: The Soft, Ethical Silk

For those concerned about sustainability and ethical production methods, Eri silk is an excellent choice. Here are its virtues:

• Origin: Eri silk is indigenous to Assam, India. It is made from the domesticated Eri silkworm which feeds on castor plants.
• Production: The cultivation and production of Eri silk provides income for local farming communities. No silkworms are harmed since the cocoons are harvested once empty after the moths emerge.
• Texture: Soft and warm with a flannel-like feel. It is thicker than Mulberry but lighter than wool.
• Uses:
  • Scarves, shawls, coats, and baby clothes
  • Sustainable fashion lines
  • Blending with wool for softness and warmth
• Pros
  • Completely ethical and cruelty-free production
  • Exceptional warmth and breathability
  • Naturally golden color requires no dyeing
• Cons
  • Heavier and less lustrous than other silks
  • Limited supply results in higher prices
  • Typically blended with other fibers that reduce luxury feel

The humanitarian virtues of Eri silk make it a top choice for socially-conscious consumers who want beautiful fabrics without exploitatively low prices.

It works well for cold weather accessories that benefit from its insulating qualities. And companies that use Eri silk make a commitment to ethical practices.

Muga Silk: The Rare & Precious Silk

Lastly, we have Muga silk – an extremely rare variety native to Assam, India that is reserved for special occasions and heirlooms. Here’s why it so precious:

• Origin: Muga silk comes from the domesticated silkworm Antheraea assamensis, which feeds on aromatic leaves of Som and Soalu plants.
• Production: Muga silk production is very small and localized. These silkworms are susceptible to environmental changes, making crop yields unpredictable.
• Texture: Soft and thick with an exceptionally fine, natural golden sheen.
• Uses:
  • Traditional ceremonial robes and bridal sarees
  • High-end fashion design
  • Tapestries, wall hangings, and upholstery
• Pros
  • Most lustrous and supple of the wild silks
  • Gorgeous warm golden hue
  • Extremely durable and resistant to abrasion
• Cons
  • Very rare and extremely expensive
  • Low elasticity prone to tearing if mishandled
  • Challenging to produce large continuous lengths

Comparing Silk Types Side-By-Side

To help summarize the key distinctions between silk varieties, here is a comparison chart:

Attribute	Mulberry	Tussar	Eri	Muga
Texture	Very smooth	Textured, uneven	Soft, flannel-like	Fine, thick
Sheen	Brilliant	Dull gold, matte	Medium golden sheen	Intense golden sheen
Durability	Excellent	Moderate	Good	Excellent
Elasticity	Excellent	Moderate	Good	Low
Care	Dry clean only	Dry clean or gentle wash	Gentle wash or dry clean	Dry clean only
Price	Highest	Low	Moderate	Very High
Environmental Impact	High	Low	Very Low	Low

 

As you can see, each silk type has tradeoffs between texture, sheen, durability, care requirements, and price.

Consider how you intend to use the fabric when deciding which variety works best for your needs.

Choosing Your Silk

The right silk choice comes down to weighing your priorities and preferences. Here are a few key deciding factors:

• Budget – Mulberry and Muga fetch the highest prices for their unparalleled quality and rarity. Eri and Tussar offer more affordable luxury.
• Fashion or Decor – Smooth, fine Mulberry excels for flowing dresses and blouses. Textured Tussar makes bold home decor statements.
• Ethics – For cruelty-free production, Eri is the gold standard. Mulberry production can use harsh chemical processing.
• Care Requirements – If you want machine washability, pick durable Eri silk blends. Delicate Mulberry requires dry cleaning.
• Sensory Experience – For next-to-skin softness choose smooth, sensuous Mulberry. Cozy, ethical Eri offers flannel-like warmth.
• Special Occasions – Muga silk and its incredible golden sheen befits heirloom sarees, gowns, or tapestries.

Hopefully these guidelines give you a sense for the silk that best suits your individual needs and style! And with some caretaking tips, your silk items can last for many years to come.

Caring for Your Silken Treasures

All silk varieties are fairly delicate and require gentler cleaning methods than other fabrics. Here are some general care guidelines:

• Hand wash or dry clean only – machine washing risks snags and tears
• Wash in cool water with a mild silk detergent
• Gently roll in a towel to absorb moisture – avoid wringing or twisting
• Lay flat or hang to dry – high heat can damage silk
• Steam or gently iron on low while still slightly damp
• Store silk properly folded or hanging to prevent creases and yellowing

Time to Explore Silk’s Allure!

 

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The article above is quoted from Vicky's blog at https://silkpedia.com/silk-types/

We would like to express our gratitude to the author of the blog post we quoted for sharing their insights on silk.